MIRTA DE GISBERT

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LUCY DELIUS

1. HOW DID YOU GET INTO THE JEWELRY INDUSTRY?

I would say I fell into the jewelry industry. In 2007 I had recently left university and was looking for a job. I got a role at the DTC (the rough diamond side of DeBeers) in the Marketing & Branding department in London. I worked there for a year before being made redundant and was then introduced to Marisa Hordern who had recently started Missoma. I was her first employee and it was the most incredible boot camp in how to start and run a jewelry brand. It was just the two of us so I got to see everything - design, wholesale, trade shows, marketing campaigns, packaging design, PR, etc. From there I went to Astley Clarke just as they were pivoting from being a multi-brand retailer into developing their own label collections - I started specializing in PR and brand development and we launched something like 12 new collections across fine and demi-fine in just one year. I then went into fine jewelry PR at a specialty agency before going in-house with a brand that had been one of my clients.

2. WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT JEWELRY?

What’s not to love? I think you’d be pushed to find another luxury good that holds both emotional and material value; a value that grows and deepens over time. Jewelry is transient, it’s a thread that connects generations and it’s a way for us to speak and communicate without words. It becomes a part of you and something that will still be here long after we are gone. Your children and grandchildren will remember certain pieces of jewelry that you wore and you’ll be connected to them forever because of this. Jewelry is magical.

3. WHAT MOTIVATED YOU TO START YOUR COMPANY?

I had my first child in 2015 and it became apparent that the company I was working for at the time wasn’t a supportive place for working mothers. I was desperately sad but realized it was time to leave and rethink my career. In all honesty, I’d always loved jewelry but I’d always felt I had more to give than just PR. I’ve always had that entrepreneurial spirit and working for others felt like a means to an end - I absolutely hate being told what to do which doesn’t really make you a good employee!

I took a few years out - I studied something completely uncreative and unrelated to jewelry. I then started consulting for some other smaller jewelry brands and other luxury brands. These were all start-up female-founded, in their fourth or fifth years in business and doing very well.  It inspired me - I thought about all the experiences I had and how it was time for me to just be my own boss and to be able to have complete autonomy.

At the same time, I’d been feeling frustrated at the jewelry industry as a whole - I’d worked in fine and demi-fine categories and felt that there was SO much demi-fine around and that the customer wasn’t being educated in what that meant. I also felt that the fine jewelry category was getting so expensive and that at the entry level there really wasn’t anything that I found inspiring, that I truly wanted to spend my money on.  Everywhere I looked, something was either totally out there and felt a bit trend lead, or it was meant to be ‘classic’ but felt generic. I felt that there was a place for a brand that sat at the entry level to the fine jewelry market that felt classic, yet had that modern sentiment. That was feminine but not girlie. I decided I wanted to create pieces that paid homage to all the amazing jewelry that has already been created - a lot of my designs are very heavily rooted in Victorian jewelry silhouettes. I like to think of my jewelry as something that sits between the past and the present - it's meant to be worn and layered with the pieces you might already have, that have been handed down.

Finally, my grandmother had left me some money and I decided that there was no better way for me to honor that gift than to invest in myself.  I never would have done it if she hadn’t given me that financial freedom to do so.

4. WHERE ARE YOU BASED?

London.

5. WHERE ARE YOU FROM?

Edinburgh.

6. ONE WORD TO DESCRIBE YOUR JEWELRY.

Addictive.

7. WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE STONE?

Emerald but I’m just too tough on my jewelry so I don’t have any! I work mainly in diamonds, you just can’t beat them, can you?!  I love browns, greens, yellows and working with unusual cuts.

8. WHAT’S THE FIRST PIECE OF JEWELRY YOU FELL IN LOVE WITH?

My granny had a Victorian five-stone opal cabochon ring and I was just transfixed with that from a young age.  That otherworldly iridescence is like nothing else, especially for a small girl being introduced to gemstones for the first time.

9. WHAT IS YOUR SPIRIT ANIMAL?

Honey Badger.

10. WHO IS YOUR JEWELRY ICON?

I’m sure everyone says this but Kate Moss has the most incredible jewelry collection. She manages to perfectly mix both new and antique pieces and she never ever looks over-accessorised. She clearly loves jewels and makes sure the pieces she owns all get some decent air time - nothing is being left at the back of the safe or kept for good. I also want to add Elvis Presley. I've been deep-diving into Elvis' jewelry archives recently. The signet rings, the medallions, the bracelets, horseshoes and the ID tags.  A reminder of how jewelry becomes an extension of our soul.  His TCB (taking care of business) motif was repeated across rings, bracelets, and necklaces.  Kitsch, statement, just amazing.

11. DO YOU HAVE A PIECE OF JEWELRY YOU WEAR EVERY DAY AND IF SO, WHY?

I have a stack of bracelets on each arm that I never take off. They are a mix of pieces that I’ve designed myself and antique pieces I’ve picked up along the way. It’s a collection that keeps growing.

I always wear my Trombone link chain. It was the first piece I ever designed and is based on a Victorian Trombone Link watch chain that I also own. I was so desperate for this piece but I kept missing out at auction and couldn’t find one in antique shops so decided to make one for myself. I slimmed the links and deconstructed the different elements - the Albert clips, the T-bar and made something that was truly modern but also referenced the past.

12. ONE WORD TO DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE.

Eclectic - I love clothes and I obviously love jewelry. How I dress is how I express myself - one day I might be super classic and the next, really dressed down. There will always be an unexpected element - an awkward shoe or a pop of color is how I get away with wearing classic pieces without feeling boring. It’s also all about the materials you wear - I hate anything synthetic.

13. LAST PIECE OF JEWELRY YOU BOUGHT AND LOVED?

In July I hit a few really huge, momentous business milestones. I spotted a beautiful 9kt rose gold Victorian Crescent moon and star bracelet with sapphires and diamonds in my favorite antique shop in Hatton Garden.  I went in and bought it. I’m going to have it engraved with the month. It’s super special and has become part of ‘The Stack’.

14. THE BEST GIFT YOU’VE RECEIVED RECENTLY?

My husband bought me an early 1900s cushion cut diamond for our 10th wedding anniversary and I recently made it into a ring. It’s really special.

15. THE THING YOU ARE COVETING NEXT?

I’m hunting for a step-cut oval brown diamond and a great shield-cut diamond for my birthday next year. I’m also trying to source a very particular Victorian bracelet.

I have to be really careful with my jewels that I ‘don’t get high on my own supply’ - the Persephone chain is just so incredible though so I’ll be making sure I have one of those for myself.

Fashion-wise, a cream Raey suit, Isabel Marant shearling vest and white Proenza Schouler loafers.

16. FAVORITE FOOD?

Truffle pasta from Osteria Pastella in Florence - a recommendation from Candice Lake.

17. LEAST FAVORITE FOOD?

Goats cheese.  Yuk.

18. WINE OR CHEESE?

Can’t beat a Chianti Classico.

19. COFFEE OR TEA?

Coffee, coffee, coffee.

20. YOGA OR BOXING?

Pilates and Peloton.

21. FAVORITE SEASON?

Summer, baby.

22. FAVORITE CITY?

London - it’s the best place to live.

23. SUPERPOWER OF CHOICE?

It would be quite cool to be able to fly.

24. SECRET SKILL?

I’m a pretty good cook.

25. WHEN DO YOU FEEL HAPPIEST?

Those moments on holiday with my family, when we all sit around and eat and chat and I’m reminded of how far I’ve come. My kids are 6 and 8 now and I’m constantly amazed by them. The holidays are the times when I really feel I can take stock of that.

26. WHEN DO YOU FEEL STRONGEST?

When I’m problem-solving, or learning new things or when I hit another business milestone. The last 2 years have been the most incredible ride.

27. YOUR BIGGEST FEAR?

Pigeons.

28. HOW DO YOU PICK YOURSELF UP FROM A LOW DAY?

Call one of my girlfriends to talk nonsense for a while. Cuddle my boys. Get into my infrared sauna or do a workout to get the endorphins moving.

29. WHAT PIECE OF JEWELRY MAKES YOU FEEL HAPPIEST?

My wedding earrings that my husband got me on our wedding day. They are SO chic and wonderful.

30. WHAT PIECE OF JEWELRY MAKES YOU FEEL STRONGEST?

My Trombone link chain - it’s the piece that started everything for me and reminds me how far I’ve come.

31. WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE YOUR YOUNGER SELF?

Slow down, you’ll get there. Stop being in such a rush to get to the next place, the next time and just enjoy the day you’re in. One day you’ll find the thing you’re searching for and everything will just fall into place. In the meantime, have fun! Go out more because once you have kids you’ll be too tired to do anything and that will make you sad!

32. WHAT IS ONE THING PEOPLE WOULD BE SURPRISED TO LEARN ABOUT YOU?

I don’t have any kind of design background, but it seems to come pouring out of me.

33. WHAT DOES ‘JOY’ MEAN TO YOU?

Feeling fulfilled in how I spend my time. I’ve always been a restless person and since launching my brand I’ve really had to live in the moment, it’s been very good for me.